Pollution, Poverty, and (finally) a Bit of Comfort in UB

Having grown more comfortable in UB over the past few days, I've gotten the chance to explore more of the city. There is a great little "Irish" pub around the corner and the back alleys, home to many fortune tellers and small tradesmen, are fun to wander about, as long as you keep your wits about you (and keep your coin purse tucked away). We finally ate some delicious borscht and mutton dumpling soup after deciphering the Cyrillic menu during a lunch break yesterday and found a good vegetarian spot as well. The stark contrast between the wealth of the city folk and those from the countryside, down on their luck is repeated everywhere and it creates the most interesting dynamic of any city I've ever visited. It is not uncommon to see young women trot along the broken concrete in their stilettos while a beggar pulls at their skirt hem, asking for a dollar or two. I am proud to report that my street crossing skills have improved greatly. Since there are few traffic lights and no real traffic laws, it's a game of chicken between driver and pedestrian. I've learned that crossing in numbers is key as well as an unwavering, intimidating stare and keeping one hand raised to slap the hood of the car who challenges you. It takes a great deal of gumption but I think I've got the hang of it. Cars are treated like horses and are parked everywhere and anywhere there seems room for them. Despite all of the air pollution (which leaves you feeling as though you've smoked a pack of cigarettes in the morning), Rachel Moshier spotted two Prius's the other day. In two days we leave for the Gobi where we'll be riding camels and possibly visiting a dig somewhere. I am so looking forward to getting out of the city and exploring beyond its walls. What lies ahead I'll soon discover. Good to hear from you all and be well until later.

Photo: The gate outside the Tibetan Buddhist monastery we take class in.