The Gobi: Mongolia's Last Frontier

Despite a bit of illness, a sandstorm, and eleven hour bus rides--or maybe because of these things--our time in the Gobi was little short of a grand adventure. We spent out time learning traditional Mongolian folk songs (Nat seems to have mastered more of the language than anyone), joking around with the Mongolian staff, riding camels, eating lots of mutton (I've quite sated any appetite I'd had before leaving), and sleeping in gers (Mongolian yurts). Between Dramamine doses, I got a good glimpse of the vast countryside. Once we ventured out beyond UB's paved roads, the rolling hills around the city guided us across the vast landscapes and, as the vegetation tapered off, we entered the desert. The Gobi felt rather wilder and more lawless than any place I've ever been in the US. It felt like what I imagine the unsettled West to have felt like and gives one the impression that one is alone, even though there are plenty of goats and yaks and sheep to tell you otherwise. The Abbott and his wonderful crew cooked us huge feasts of mutton stew and baked us bread each day and were often up until the wee hours sharing drink and songs with some of our group. We we able to finish up our Paleo "midterm" amidst some nasty viral bug that kept most of us running back and forth between our gers and the toilet, and even visited the famous Flaming Cliffs where Roy Chapman Andrews discovered one of the first dinosaur egg nests. After a trip to the Great Sand Dunes and the ruins of Khar Khourum, the ancient capital, we made our way back onto pavement and back to UB where we'll spend some more time finishing up our Paleo lessons and begin our coursework in Buddhism before heading to Northern China. I will do my best to keep you all updated and feel free to ask further questions of me if you want to know more about our travels. Be well, until later.

Photos: The Abbott looking out over a forested valley outside of Khar Khorum, our friendly bus, the hills surrounding our camp the first night, the Flaming Cliffs, a ger camp, and camel riding in the Gobi.

Pollution, Poverty, and (finally) a Bit of Comfort in UB

Having grown more comfortable in UB over the past few days, I've gotten the chance to explore more of the city. There is a great little "Irish" pub around the corner and the back alleys, home to many fortune tellers and small tradesmen, are fun to wander about, as long as you keep your wits about you (and keep your coin purse tucked away). We finally ate some delicious borscht and mutton dumpling soup after deciphering the Cyrillic menu during a lunch break yesterday and found a good vegetarian spot as well. The stark contrast between the wealth of the city folk and those from the countryside, down on their luck is repeated everywhere and it creates the most interesting dynamic of any city I've ever visited. It is not uncommon to see young women trot along the broken concrete in their stilettos while a beggar pulls at their skirt hem, asking for a dollar or two. I am proud to report that my street crossing skills have improved greatly. Since there are few traffic lights and no real traffic laws, it's a game of chicken between driver and pedestrian. I've learned that crossing in numbers is key as well as an unwavering, intimidating stare and keeping one hand raised to slap the hood of the car who challenges you. It takes a great deal of gumption but I think I've got the hang of it. Cars are treated like horses and are parked everywhere and anywhere there seems room for them. Despite all of the air pollution (which leaves you feeling as though you've smoked a pack of cigarettes in the morning), Rachel Moshier spotted two Prius's the other day. In two days we leave for the Gobi where we'll be riding camels and possibly visiting a dig somewhere. I am so looking forward to getting out of the city and exploring beyond its walls. What lies ahead I'll soon discover. Good to hear from you all and be well until later.

Photo: The gate outside the Tibetan Buddhist monastery we take class in.